This Christmas morning I was fortunate enough to spend a few hours passing the time quietly reading, observing and listening to music. There were a few articles about food and restaurants, as well as a piece about the awkward situations that the Christmas holidays can bring when spending time with family. In the background was a shuffle mix of Beethoven piano sonatas. All making for a leisurely, if not enjoyable morning.
Little did I know there would be a common theme amongst the disparate events of that day. The river of consciousness flows and reveals to us that change is inevitable. And even though we must adapt, we do not have to lose ourselves in the process.
When the Romans marched north from Italy across the Alps into modern day Germany, they arrived into what they called silva nigra, or the Black Forest. In German, it is known as the Schwarzwald and makes up the southwestern tip of the country. It is filled with fir, spruce and an abundance of forest life. It is also filled with remnants of its Roman architecture where churches show off the classic arch of its Roman heritage. The article talks about a region once vibrant with thermal baths and commerce. Now, the economy and its tourism dwindle in relevance.
At the turn of the century, people began to move out of this picturesque landscape. They moved to bigger cities in search of better opportunities. Reminiscent of the outmigration happening in Española, the Schwarzwald became desolate with an aging population unable to sustain its economy. It wasn’t until a decade ago that sentiment changed among local leaders who chose to invest in tourism and growth. Rather than hope for the best while keeping things the same, the region sought opportunities to bring in over 9.2 million visitors in 2024. Its haute cuisine and hospitality industries are now thriving. The owner of one of the local inns says, “We don’t want to wander too far from the path of tradition,” but change is necessary to grow and survive.
In another story about change, I read about a woman whose family Christmas tradition evolved over time. After her parents divorced and each remarried, the family and their respective halves continue to meet under the same roof for the holidays. Instead of the situation being ridiculously awkward, the family has figured it out. The author even recounts walking into the main bedroom where the entire family was huddled around the bed on Christmas morning. Stockings and gifts were exchanged with her mother and father, each with their new spouse in pajamas, literally on the same bed, all seemingly getting along.
Rolling with the punches and managing the kinks of potentially weird situations, this “new” Christmas tradition gets stronger over the years. Instead of letting Christmas crumble simply because things have changed this family forges new traditions, establishes new memories. These experiences could not have been possible had the family chosen to deny the tides of change. As if giving our beloved city much needed advice and the consejos it truly needs to hear, she says, “It will be good to shake things up … while old traditions are sacrosanct, new people can make them better.”
Then there was the article about the world’s oldest restaurant, Sobrino de Botín. It’s nestled on a street corner in the Austrias neighborhood in Madrid, Spain, and is the longest continuously running restaurant on record. It has been the “it” locale and featured in many books including Ernest Hemingway’s “A Sun Also Rises.” Authors and dignitaries fawn over the romantic dining rooms and the history the restaurant exudes. Located where Spain’s Philip II held his royal court in 1590, Sobrino de Botín fed soldiers during the Spanish Civil War.
But how do you keep a 300-year-old restaurant founded in 1725 relevant by today’s standards? Only two families have owned the restaurant over its lifetime, and it continues to host a variety of people like you and me. According to the third-generation co-owner, Antonio González, keeping the menu items local and fresh and sticking to the basics are what matter most. He says, “We have lasted this long because we have great respect for authenticity.” They roast approximately 60 suckling pigs every single day throughout the year, using traditional methods and local ingredients. With over 100 employees, it is not uncommon to see young men and women work their way up the ranks over several decades. Pride in the final product takes many steps, and unimaginable hours with unprecedented commitment to excellence. Longevity is as much about remaining true to history as it is about preparing for the future.
Examples of change, tenacity and the need to adapt are lessons we all must hear. Española is not immune to the hardship that change can bring to a traditional community. We see those challenges throughout the world and throughout history. But we are currently at our crossroad. We can continue down the path of the status quo and continue to fear change. Or we can adapt to it and embrace a world of growth and abundance. As in the case of Botín, we can also do it while preserving our dedication to culture and history.
Change is coming for us. Either it means a change for the better … or a change for the worse. There is no in-between.
Javier Sanchez is an El Rito Media columnist, former Española mayor, and restaurant owner.